Doc Project Final for Documentary Photojournalism (Jour 5370)
Hayley McDowell and the Importance of Makeup
Hayley Mcdowell poses for a picture of her face without makeup on March 12, 2021 in Chattanooga, TN. The US beauty and personal care market alone is estimated at over $93 billion, and, on one hand, it seems that the cosmetic industry profits off of the anxieties, low self-esteem, and insecurities of millions of women across the world. However, for people like Hayley, makeup has a “lipstick effect,” meaning that she gains confidence and feels more attractive while wearing makeup.
Hayley McDowell sets out her makeup products on the floor of her bedroom on March 12, 2021 in Chattanooga, TN. Mcdowell said, “I do like makeup as a creative thing, but I do agree that it does sort of make me feel insecure, which is sort of sad.” McDowell goes on to say, “It’s complicated because my acne doesn’t have anything to do with the makeup industry itself, so sometimes it makes me feel better when I have foundation on for a breakout.”
Hayley McDowell poses for a picture of her reflection in the mirror of an eyeshadow palette before she begins to apply her makeup on March 12, 2021 in Chattanooga, TN. McDowell said she started wearing makeup because of her aunt and her mother, not because of a pressure to fit in with her peers or to try to meet societal beauty standards. “I started wearing it because my mom and my aunt, like they’re so cool and they wear makeup. They look cool, you know?” McDowell said.
Hayley McDowell reaches for her Ecotools beauty sponge to apply her foundation on March 12, 2021 in Chattanooga, TN. McDowell finds inspiration for her makeup looks from instagram influencers and musicians. “I follow a bunch of girls from all over the world that do makeup, and it inspires me like ‘Oh, she’s so pretty,’ I want to try,” Mcdowell said. She also went on to say, “I’m more inspired by like, the persona that musicians have in the makeup they wear.”
Hayley McDowell uses an antique mirror while applying her makeup on March 12, 2021. While McDowell finds inspiration online and through music, she does point out she has also noticed that diversity in the beauty industry is lacking. “I’d say that the bigger the brand, the more money it has, the less genuine they are being about it,” she said.
Hayley McDowell opens her tube of NARS concealer on March 12, 2021 in Chattanooga, TN. Even though the cosmetic industry seems to be celebrating diversity and difference as a response to civil unrest and movements like Black Lives Matter, a history of racism and isolationism still lurks beneath the surface. Maddie Saunders, the brand leader for Lush Makeup said, “Diversity cannot start and finish with an advert or a social media post in order for it to resonate with the customer.”
Hayley McDowell applies concealer to cover blemishes and imperfections in her skin on March 12, 2021 in Chattanooga, TN. Bigger brands such as Rimmel, Dior and Covergirl have all jumped to expand their shade ranges. However, McDowell believes that smaller brands may be the way to go for people of color. “I feel like the bigger the brand is, the less genuine they are about diversity, but there are smaller brands that really do care about being a brand for diverse people. People have darker skin colors and different needs,” she said.
Hayley McDowell uses an antique mirror while applying her makeup on March 12, 2021. Diversity in the makeup industry has also been pushed to include more than just women. Makeup is no longer a tool used to enforce the gender binary, however, there is still a huge disparity between the number of men and women who are practicing makeup artists. According to Zippia, a website dedicated to helping individuals find work, among makeup artists, 79.3% of them are women compared to 15.4% which are men.
Hayley McDowell ties her hair back after applying cream blush to her cheeks on March 12, 2021. When asked about who makeup is for, McDowell said, “In my personal opinion, makeup is for anybody that wants to wear makeup, like, I don’t care. I don’t care who you are, it’s for everyone.”
Hayley McDowell applies Benefit Roller Lash Mascara to her eyelashes on March 12, 2021 in Chattanooga, TN. Makeup has been a huge part of McDowell’s life for many years as a creative outlet, but it has also become a coping mechanism for her mental illness. She suffers from anxiety and depression, and having an activity that is calm and soothing has been a huge help. “It’s just a really good thing for me to establish a routine. It helps with my anxiety; I deal with that a lot. Makeup is pretty soothing,” she said.
Hayley McDowell poses for a picture of her “everyday makeup look” on March 12, 2021 in Chattanooga, TN. According to psychotherapist Mike Dow PsyD, people with mental illnesses such as anxiety and depression can commonly find themselves stuck in negative thought patterns such as overanalyzing situations, blaming themselves for things beyond their control, or generally feeling pessimistic. As it turns out, makeup routines can lead to positive cognitive benefits for the brain by interrupting negative thought loops.
Hayley McDowell applies a metallic eyeshadow to her eyelid to create a “going out look” on March 12, 2021 in Chattanooga, TN. For most people, makeup is just a part of their everyday routine to get ready. However, this routine has had a major positive impact on McDowell’s life. “I have learned that I am sorta, you know, I have a routine I like to follow. I’ve learned that through makeup, makeup helps me actually go through my routine every day and it makes me feel more put together and more normal. When I wear my makeup, it’s just a really good thing,” she said.
Hayley McDowell uses her finger to grab a metallic eyeshadow named Gash from an Urban Decay eyeshadow palette on March 12, 2021 in Chattanooga, TN. Dr. Dow also says that most cognitive behavioral therapy patients are taught to do something either productive or pleasurable when they notice themselves getting stuck in negative thought loops. For many, skincare and makeup checks both of those boxes.
Hayley McDowell poses for a picture of her “going out” makeup look on March 12, 2021 in Chattanooga, TN. Various looks also take different amounts of time and effort according to McDowell. “Usually I will use less products altogether for an everyday look. But I will still wear eyeliner, which not everybody does for everyday looks. Then for a party look, I will definitely spend way more time on it. And I will probably use better products so that it’ll last longer and make my skin look better,” she said.
Hayley McDowell shows off her “going out” makeup look on March 12, 2021 in Chattanooga, TN. McDowell puts so much time and effort into creating makeup looks and using the routine as a way to cope with her mental health. However, for many people, makeup is synonymous with wearing a mask.
Hayley McDowell poses for a picture of her reflection in an antique mirror on March 12, 2021 in Chattanooga, TN. When asked if she wears makeup as a mask, McDowell said, “The reason why I think it can be a mask and the reason why it is not a negative connotation of being a mask is because when I have makeup on, I feel confident and put together. I feel pretty.” She went on to say, “I do think it’s sort of a form of a mask because people in general just do have masks that they put on for the public, and it’s nothing negative. It’s just something to help you feel more confident. And there are just different sides of yourself that you show the public and different sides you wouldn’t show.”